Privacy fence styles, seen from both sides of the line

Privacy fence covers five different builds that look alike in a catalog and behave differently in a yard. Here is what each style shows you, what it shows the neighbor, how much it blocks in practice, and how each one stands up to wind.

The full-privacy builds: solid and board-on-board

Solid privacy is the default: boards butted edge to edge on one face of the frame. Full block on day one, but cedar boards shrink as they dry, and by the second summer thin sight gaps open between them. It also has a good side and a frame side, so someone gets the view of rails and posts, a detail worth settling with the neighbor before the build.

Board-on-board overlaps each board on its neighbors, so shrinkage happens behind an overlap instead of opening a gap. Privacy stays total for the life of the boards, the shadow lines give the face some depth, and it reads as the more finished fence. It uses meaningfully more lumber, which is what you are paying for. Both builds are bread and butter for our cedar fence installation crews, and both come in vinyl versions where gaps never open at all.

The shared-line builds: good-neighbor, lattice-top, horizontal slat

Good-neighbor, often called shadowbox, alternates boards on both faces of the rails. Each side sees the same finished fence, which ends the good-side argument, and straight-on privacy is solid. Stand at an angle, though, and the alternating gaps open a sliver of view; from a neighbor's upstairs window it is a screen, not a wall.

Lattice-top puts a foot or so of lattice above a solid lower section. You keep privacy at eye level, gain light and a view of the trees, and soften the wall effect on a small patio. The lattice counts toward your total height in every city we work in, a detail our permit rules guide covers city by city.

Horizontal slat runs spaced boards flat, reads modern, and looks identical from both sides. Its privacy is honest but partial: the tighter the gap, the more it blocks, and it never blocks everything.

Side by side

Relative cost only, because footage, height, and terrain move every real number more than style does.

StyleNeighbor's viewReal privacyWind behaviorRelative cost
Solid privacyRails and frameTotal, minor gaps as boards dryFull sail$$
Board-on-boardOverlapped back face, tidyTotal, stays totalFull sail$$$
Good-neighborIdentical to yoursHigh straight-on, leaks at anglesBleeds wind through$$–$$$
Lattice-topFrame below, lattice aboveTotal at eye level, open aboveSail below, bleeds up top$$$
Horizontal slatIdentical to yoursPartial, set by gap widthBleeds wind through$$$+

Read the wind column twice if you live east of the airport. Out there it decides more fences than the privacy column does.

Wind is the tiebreaker east of I-205

A solid 6 foot panel takes the full push of every gust and hands it to the posts, which is fine in a sheltered inner-metro yard and a genuine engineering question out toward the Gorge. East of I-205, and especially in the east-wind funnel around Troutdale and Camas, we have replaced plenty of solid fences that a good-neighbor build would have shrugged off, because spaced styles bleed a share of the wind through their gaps instead of catching all of it.

That doesn't mean solid privacy is off the menu in the wind zone. It means the build changes: posts on tighter centers, deeper footings, sometimes steel posts behind cedar boards. If your heart is set on total privacy out there, we build for the wind and price it honestly rather than talking you out of it.

Cost order, and what fits a tight lot

From least to most, the usual order runs: solid privacy, then good-neighbor, then lattice-top, then board-on-board, with horizontal slat at the top because it wants premium straight boards, closer post spacing, and more fastening time. Where each lands for you depends on height and footage, so treat the order as the map and the written estimate as the survey.

On tight lots where both households look at the fence every day, the choice narrows fast. Good-neighbor and horizontal slat present the same face to both sides in wood; vinyl privacy panels settle the question another way, since front and back are identical panels out of the same mold. What we steer people away from is putting the frame side toward a neighbor unannounced. The fence lasts decades; so does the conversation about it.

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

What is the best privacy fence for a windy area?

Good-neighbor and other spaced styles carry less wind load because gusts bleed through the gaps instead of hitting a full sail. If you want total privacy in a wind zone anyway, the answer is the build rather than the style: tighter post spacing, deeper footings, and steel posts behind the boards where the exposure is serious.

Which side of the fence has to face the neighbor?

A few cities in our area write it into code, requiring the finished face outward or the structural posts toward your own lot, and many HOAs do the same. Where no rule applies, it is a courtesy question. Good-neighbor, horizontal slat, and vinyl privacy styles sidestep the whole issue by looking the same from both sides.

Does board-on-board block the view completely?

Straight on, yes, and unlike butted solid fence it stays that way, because each board's shrinkage hides behind an overlap instead of opening a gap. At a sharp angle up close there can be a sliver of sightline between overlaps, but from any normal distance it is a full visual wall for the life of the boards.

Can I put lattice on top of an existing privacy fence?

Sometimes, and two checks come first. The combined height has to stay inside your city's limit, since lattice counts toward the total nearly everywhere, and the posts have to have the height and soundness to carry the extension in wind. Posts trimmed at the old fence top usually mean the retrofit needs new or sistered posts to do it right.

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