Tigard Fence Company for Slopes, Setbacks, and Solid Posts

The community standards there spell out approved styles and heights, and the architectural review board expects drawings before work starts. We work from the published standards and keep the approval paperwork short. If you want something beyond the baseline, a taller screen or a custom gate, we will say upfront whether the reviewers are likely to approve it before you spend money on plans.

A building permit applies at seven feet or taller. Below that, placement still matters: front setbacks cap at three feet on local streets, six on collectors and arterials, while sides and rear can go to eight. Corner lots need clear sight distance near driveways and intersections. We verify the current code language for your specific lot while preparing the estimate, then pull whatever the job needs.

Yes, slope work is a specialty. We follow the grade with racked framing instead of leaving stair-step gaps, set downhill posts deeper, and plan gate locations where the ground is flat enough for a proper swing. One note for the upper hill: some streets up there are unincorporated county land, so different rules can apply, and we sort out jurisdiction before we quote.

Site conditions drive it, which is why we measure before we talk numbers. Slope, soil, access for equipment, old fence removal, and material choice all move the total, in both directions. Our estimates are free, itemized, and firm, so you can set ours next to any other bid item by item. We price for work done right once, not for the lowest number on the page.

Creekside lots carry wetland and stream buffer setbacks that determine where a fence can legally stand, and the ground near the water stays wet deep into spring. We locate the buffer line first, then design the run to sit outside it so you never face a forced relocation. Footings there get gravel bases and posts rated for wet ground. It costs a little more thought upfront and saves the fence.

If posts snapped off at grade, the remaining posts are usually close behind, because rot hits every post about the same time. If the wind pulled fasteners or cracked rails while posts stayed solid, a repair makes sense and we will quote it that way. We do plenty of two-section fixes, and we would rather earn the replacement job years from now than force it today.

We install and service them, swing and sliding, on residential drives and commercial yards. The opener is only as good as the gate hanging from it, so we check post plumb, hinge wear, and gate weight before quoting an operator. On sloped driveways, common on the hill lots here, the swing direction and clearance take extra planning, and we handle that in the site visit.

Re-stain in summer or early fall, once the boards have seen weeks of dry weather, because stain needs dry wood to bond. Treat it as recurring upkeep rather than a one-time step if you want the color to stay. The same logic applies to brand-new cedar, which should season for roughly a month, often two, before its first coat. Skipped entirely, the fence silvers out without giving up strength.

Two, at different price points. A surveyor can start with a pin search, hunting the buried monuments set when the lot was first recorded, which is the economical route. If the pins are gone or disputed, the fallback is a full survey to re-establish the corners. We build to whichever markers result, or to a line you and the neighbor agree on; drawing the boundary ourselves is not something the law lets a fence company do.

Usually, yes. We stage material by hand where a truck cannot park safely, and steep-lot winter installs are a regular part of our year. Weather itself is seldom the obstacle people expect: rain will not undercut a footing, since concrete strengthens chemically as it cures, and only a sustained freeze changes how we pour, something this hillside rarely holds onto. Winter booking also typically moves faster than waiting out the spring pile-up.