Fence and Gate Builder Serving Hillsboro Homes, Farms, and Job Sites

Yes, with the right footing. High water tables are common on the old farmland at this end of town, so we plan for saturated soil rather than hoping for a dry week. That means drainage gravel under posts, concrete placed to full depth, and ground-contact-rated material where the post meets soil. A fence built dry-land style in that ground fails early, which is why so many out there lean.

Sometimes. Builder fences are bid by the linear foot at the lowest number that closes the deal, so posts and fasteners are usually where corners got cut. If the layout is good we can often keep the line, replace the weak components, and upgrade the boards. You will get a plain comparison between reinforcing what exists and starting over, and either answer is fine with us.

We do. The rural edges west and south still run livestock and horses, and we install field fence, board fence, and gates sized for equipment access. Farm work is where footing knowledge earns its keep, since long runs across open ground take wind load and animal pressure that a backyard fence never sees. Tell us the animals and the acreage and we will spec accordingly.

We will not throw out a number without seeing the site, because the honest answer depends on soil, access, length, material, and demolition. What we promise is an itemized quote in writing, free, priced to do the work correctly the first time. We are rarely the lowest bid and rarely the highest. When a bid comes in far under ours, check what post depth it specifies.

Plan on it. Unlike most metro cities, this one asks for a fence permit when a new fence goes in or an old one moves, with a small flat fee, and front setbacks cap out at 4 feet 2 inches on interior lots. We handle the paperwork, pull the permit, and fold the cost into the written quote so nothing lands on you later.

Yes. The industrial corridors that grew up around the Silicon Forest need security chain link, ornamental iron for street-facing frontage, and automated gates tied to access control. We build all three and we coordinate with facilities schedules so installation does not block truck routes or shift changes. Licensed and bonded in both states, which matters for contractors working multi-site accounts.

In this climate vinyl wins on lifespan and cedar wins on looks and repairability, and both give out at the post line before the panels if the footing is wrong. Vinyl needs no staining but shows algae on shaded north sides. Cedar needs maintenance every few years, and a damaged section can be fixed one board at a time. We install both and will walk you through the tradeoffs on your lot.

Hold off until the wood is ready. Cedar straight from the mill carries moisture, and stain applied too early peels instead of protecting, so give a new fence a month or more of drying time, then pick a rain-free stretch for the first coat. If you decide against staining altogether, that works too; bare cedar tolerates this climate and settles into a uniform gray.

It can be, as long as both owners point out the same line and understand we are building to their agreement, not to a legal determination; only a surveyor can fix the true position of the line. On these older blocks, having one locate the original pins costs modestly next to resurveying the lot end to end, and it protects you, since a fence sitting past your line is an encroachment the neighbor can insist gets moved.

Briefly, sometimes. Concrete wants temperatures reliably above roughly 40 degrees or it needs cold-weather protection while curing, and when a genuine freeze pushes through Washington County we adjust the schedule or shield the pours. Those snaps pass quickly here. Rain is no obstacle at all, since curing is a chemical reaction, not a drying process, which matters on ground this wet. Winter slots also typically open sooner than spring ones.